Self Drive Namibia Road Trip - 3-week Namibia Itinerary

 

After our trip to South Africa in 2017, we felt it was time to explore more of Southern Africa. So when we came home we started making our first inquiries for a trip to Namibia. But it wasn’t as easy as booking a road trip in South Africa. We started talking to different travel agents at the beginning of January for our trip in November. By the time we had finalised our complete road trip itinerary and decided where we wanted to stay in Namibia, 3 out of the 10 accommodations were already booked out.

So in this post, we want to share the 3-week itinerary for a road trip through Namibia we had planned for our 2018 trip, what we were able to book in the end and how we adjusted it while we were there, along with some tips about when to go and what to consider while driving in Namibia.

About Namibia


Namibia is in Southern Africa and is famous for Etosha National Park and the red sand dunes and deadvlei in the Sossusvlei, which is part of Namib-Naukluft Park. The country shares a border with Angola in the north, Botswana in the east, South Africa in the south, and Zambia and Zimbabwe in the Northeast (close to Victoria Falls).

When visiting Namibia for a road trip, you will fly into Hosea Kutako International Airport in Windhoek, the capital of Namibia. From here you can rent a car for a self-drive or join one of a large number of organised overland trips.

Namibia is home to the number 3 (Namib-Naukluft Park - 49,768 sq km) and 6 (Etosha National Park - 22,270 sq km) in the top 50 of Africa's largest national parks. Because of the desert climate, both of the parks provide spectacular views. Just look at the main image on our home page, which was made in Namib-Naukluft Park.

Something to consider when going on a road trip in Nambia is that distances are long with /Ai /Ais-Richtersveld Transfrontier Park in the South, Sossusvlei in the west and Etosha in the north of the country. And as only a small part of the roads are tarred, travel can be slow. But it's all worth it. We haven't travelled anywhere with so many different landscapes, where you can drive for hours without seeing anyone and often feel like you're alone in the world.

Best time to visit Namibia


You can visit Namibia throughout the year because even in the wet season you can have rain or a thunderstorm in the afternoon and then it’s dry again. But from what we've heard, the rains can impact the quality of the roads.

The best period for game viewing is during the dry season when the animals will need to go to the waterholes to drink and the bushes are less lush so it’s easier to spot them. In Namibia, the dry season is in winter and runs from May till October but the peak season is between July and October.

The wet season runs from November till April with January till March being the wettest and warmest months. This is the prime period for the animals to give birth but it can be more difficult to see the animals as there is more vegetation and they can stay away from the waterholes along the roads.

Besides the conditions for the animals, the summer can also have quite some impact on us as the temperatures can rise to 40C. However in general it’s more between 25-35C.

We did our self-drive safari in November and it can get very hot, making it difficult to sleep at night when you're camping. But as you're in the car with air conditioning most of your day and packing up or putting up your tent when it's cooler, we felt it was still doable.

The only exception was at the Canyon Roadhouse campsite close to Fish River Canyon, at night there was quite a strong breeze and it became quite cold during the night.

Deadvlei Namibia by TravelTaale

Tips for driving in Namibia


There are only a few tarred roads in Namibia, so it depends on where you're going, but if you're using this itinerary, you will need a 4x4. But even with a 4x4, the conditions can be quite rough so expect some bouncing around due to potholes and deep ruts.

So be sure to have a 2nd spare tire. The reason for this is the gravel roads that you will be on most of the time and/or because you’re far away from any help if you do have a flat tire.

Be sure to check your tires often (ideally every time before you drive off) as the condition on the gravel roads are tough on your tires (the first image of this blog is quite a good indication of how roads can look) and punctures are quite common. This happens more on the public roads because you’re driving much faster and there are often large stones on the edges of the roads, but while it’s less in the National Parks, it can still be an issue if you’re not close to a city where you can get your tire fixed. Just remember that when you have a puncture inside one of the National Parks, you're not supposed to get out of your car.

Next to your spare tires, you need to have the tools to change the tires and a compressor to fill up your tyre pressure.

Due to the road conditions, most rental car companies are strict on speed limits and no driving in the dark.

Fuel

For a road trip like the one included in this itinerary and especially in a country like Namibia where there is a limited number of filling stations and the next one might be hours away, it's a good idea to have a car with a double fuel tank. Alternatively, you can fill up jerry cans just to be safe.

We always like to fill up our tank, even when we have a double tank in our car, every time we come close to half a tank, as you never know where the next filling station will be if they’re open and if they’re having gas.

It’s custom that the pump attendant will fill up the car for you so don’t do it yourself. They often also clean your windows, it’s free but a tip of R5-R10 is highly appreciated (just like when you park your car at a groceries store or shopping mall where they have parking attendants - to be recognised by their yellow/orange vests)

Namib Naukluft by TravelTaale

3-week self-drive road trip through Namibia - The overview


We are starting this itinerary in Namibia itself but you will obviously need to add days for the travel to Namibia and back home.

The itinerary starts from Hosea Kutako International Airport in Windhoek

For this route, you need at least 19 days, but it can easily be extended if you prefer to travel more slowly and spend longer in a destination. You could also do this itinerary reversed, but we loved that we 'saved the best for last' with Etosha.

Day 1/2 - Zebra Kalahari Lodge // 250km and 3 hours
Day 3/4 - Gondwana - Canyon Roadhouse // 440km and 4.50 hours
Day 5 - Luderitz Nest hotel // 385km and 4.10 hours
Day 6 - Bahnhof Hotel - Aus // 125 km and 1.15 hours
Day 7/8/9 - Sossus Oasis campsite, Sossusvlei // 340km and 4.50 hours
Day 10/11 - Namib Guesthouse, Swakopmund // 345km and 4.30 hours
Day 12/13 - Gondwana - Damara Mopane Lodge, Damaraland // 325km and 4.10 hours
Day 13/14 - Okaukeujo camping // 230 km and 2.20 hours
Day 15/16 - Ongume Bush Camp // 160km and 2.55 hours
Day 17/18 - Waterberg Plateau camp, camping // 315km and 4 hours
Day 19 - Airport Windhoek // 332km and 3.5 hours

Namibia tropic of capricorn by TravelTaale

Day 2: Driving to the red sand dunes of the Kalahari


Where to stay - Into Africa Zebra Kalahari Lodge

Things to do - Morning and afternoon game drives, bushman guided walks, quad bike ride

Where to eat - At the lodge

Route - Windhoek - Rehoboth (B1) - Kalkrand - C21 - D1268

From Hosea Kutako International Airport in Windhoek it is about 3 hours to Into Africa Zebra Kalahari Lodge. But as most rental car companies don't allow you to drive after dark, you need to consider the time it takes to go through customs (in our case it took at least 1.5 hours), pick up your car and then drive up to the lodge. As an alternative, you can stay your first night in Windhoek.

The Zebra Kalahari Lodge is as the name suggests, in the Kalahari with its red sand dunes, and is part of the 10,000ha Into Africa Private Game reserve, and also offers other accommodation like the Suricate Tented Lodge and the Camelthorn Kalahari lodge.

Unlike in South Africa and Botswana where you have the Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park as a national park, in the Kalahari in Namibia, there are only private lodges and guest farms that allow visitors to explore the Kalahari.

When you're at the lodge you can book a guided morning or afternoon drive, participate in a bushman guided walk or rent a quad bike.

If you want to stay at the lodge, there is a swimming pool, bar and lounge where you can enjoy the red sand dunes and the animals that roam free and come to the waterhole. In the evening, the deck in front of the pool becomes the restaurant.

Zebra Kalahari Lodge Namibia by TravelTaale

Day 3/4 November: Exploring the Fish River Canyon 


Where to stay - Gondwana Canyon Roadhouse

Things to do - Viewpoint overlooking the Fish River Canyon, Fish River hiking trail, Ai-Ais Richtersveld Transfrontier Park, Quiver Tree Forest

Where to eat - At the restaurant or you can use the braai on your campsite.

Route - D1268 - C20 - B1 to Mariental - Keetmanshoop - B4 - C12 - D601

After 2 nights in the Zebra Kalahari Lodge (or 1 night if you stayed in Windhoek the first night)

it's time to head towards to South African border to the Fish River Canyon. This is the 2nd largest canyon in the world after the Grand Canyon.

The views from the viewpoint are amazing and it's hard to comprehend the size of the Fish River Canyon, which is 160km long, 27km wide and almost 550m at its deepest.

Gondwana Canyon Roadhouse is both a hotel and a campsite and is about 25km from the Fish River Canyon. Closer to the Canyon, Gondwana also has 2 other properties that you can stay at (Canyon Village & Canyon Lodge).

If you've been looking to go to Namibia, you've probably heard about Solitaire, a rest stop in the middle of nowhere with a bakery and a lot of old cars, that you pass when travelling from the Sossusvlei to Windhoek or Walvis Bay. Canyon Roadhouse has a similar feel to it with lots of old cars, gas pumps and tools on the outside walls of the hotel.

They have a (dipping) pool, bar, restaurant and souvenirs shop. The campsites are large, most of them have shade and a stone cooking station with a braai grid. The communal ablutions were one of the best we encountered on the whole trip.

Another accommodation option is the Ai-Ais resort which is also where you can visit the hot springs.

Quiver Tree Forest Namibia by TravelTaale
Fish River Canyon Namibia by TravelTaale

Day 5: Staying over at Luderitz & visiting Kolmanskop


Where to stay - Luderitz Nest hotel

Things to do - Kolmanskop, architecture in town

Where to eat - At the hotel, The Portuguese Fisherman Seafood and Fish, Barrels Restaurant

Route - D601 - C12 - B4 - past Aus and Kolmanskop

From Canyon Roadhouse, you'll take the same road back to Seeheim and then take the B4 to Luderitz.

When you continue on the road, you will notice you're coming closer to the coast due to the sand dunes. But the landscape is rocky and barren and has a bit of a desolate feeling. This is enhanced by the empty oil drums you see every couple of km with keep out painted on them and the warning signs saying you can not enter. This is because both sides of the road are part of the Sperrgebiet, which is German for Prohibited Area (now known as Tsau Khaeb National Park) as this is a diamond mining area.

From the road, there is not much you can see that is related to diamond mining but if you're interested in it you can visit Kolmanskop. This is one of the old diamond mining towns that are now completely abandoned. Kolmanskop is not the only one, but this is the most accessible one as for others you need special permits and a guide.

To me, this town was one of the highlights of this 19-day Namibia Itinerary. When you walk around and as far as the eye can see, you see sand, rocks and abandoned buildings that are being claimed back by the sand, it's hard to imagine how people could have lived here in the early 1900s.

But when you visit the museum you can see the photographs and then try to imagine what it was like when you walk through the small empty buildings from the labourers, through the hospital and then the mansions of the few executives who were in charge. When the sun is out, the light is just beautiful and a delight for photographers but try to be early as it can get busy.

Just past Kolmanskop, you will drive into Luderitz. It is a small town that is still very much the same as when it was built. therefore you can still find a lot of historic buildings like the Railway Station, the Old Post Office, and the Felsenkirche.

The town has quite a few options in regards to accommodation so no matter if you're looking for a hotel, self-catering or campsite, you'll be able to find something. There are also some great restaurants and coffee shops in town. And it's definitely the place to stock up on groceries for the next part of your trip as it will be a couple of days to the next supermarket in Swakopmund.

During our trip, we stayed in The Nest Hotel, which is the winner of a HAN excellence award. The hotel is located next to the Atlantic Ocean and has a restaurant, bar, terrace, swimming pool and sauna.

Kolmanskop Namibia by TravelTaale
Kolmanskop Namibia by TravelTaale

Day 6: Taking a rest day in Aus


Where to stay - Bahnhoff Hotel

Things to do - Watch the desert horses, visit the Aus military cemetery

Where to eat - At the hotel

Route - B4 - C13

It's only a short drive to Aus, so you can also visit Kolmanskop on this day as you will have enough time to get to Aus on time. Besides that, there is not much to do in Aus itself and we would advise making sure you're taking some rest today as the next day will be a long drive over gravel roads.

On the way from Luderitz to Aus, you will pass Klein Aus, where you can find a hide and a waterhole (artificial borehole) that often attracts the desert horses. It is said that these are the world's only wild desert-dwelling horses.

We stayed at the Bahnhof Hotel, also a HAN Award winner of Excellence (4x). The hotel has a great sun deck where it can be hard to find a spot as it's often used as a stopover for lunch by overland tour groups. But the extensive menu and the quality of the food make up for that. They also have a bar, lounge and indoor restaurant. And something we always look for in Southern Africa; safe parking and a night security guard.

Gondwana also has properties close to Aus, the Desert Horse inn and the Desert collection Klein-Aus vista. And in Aus, you can find several campsites and self-catering accommodations.

Day 7/8/9: Climbing the red sand dunes of the Sossusvlei


Where to stay - Sossus Oasis campsite

Things to do - Climb Dune 45 or Big Daddy, Deadvlei, Sesriem Canyon, take a hot air balloon ride

Where to eat - Braai under the stars on your campsite

Route - C13 - C27 - Betta - C27/B831 - C27/B826

So far, you have mostly driven over tarred roads or only short sections on gravel roads, that's about to change today on your way to the Sossusvlei as you're entering the Namib Desert. Don't drive too fast on these roads, watch for big rocks, potholes and corrugated tracks and, when possible, drive in the middle of the road. Just make sure you move over to the side when you're approaching a turn or hill, as you often can't see what's on the other side.

On your way to the Sossusvlei, you will come through the Namib-Naukluft Park where you will probably see gemsbok and zebra roaming around or hiding from the sun under the bushes. Here you will already see hills in the distance that will turn into red sand and dunes as far as the eye can see, the closer you come to Sesriem.

There are a lot of options here in terms of accommodation from cheap campsites to very luxury lodges and resorts. So there is something for every price point.

We stayed at Sossus Oasis campsite as it's close to the gate. Each spot is quite large with a braai grid and has a covered paved area with private ablutions, a kitchenette with a washbasin. All spots are in a circle with a small swimming pool in the middle and unobstructed views. There is a filling station close by that has a small shop. Just be sure to pack up everything as in the evening we had a visit from a jackel who tried to trash our bin.

From our campsite we could actually see the cars lining up in the morning, waiting to get in. And you do want to enter the Sossusvlei as soon as the gate opens as it will take you another 45-minutes to an hour to drive to Dune 45, Big Daddy or Deadvlei. The earlier you are there are fewer people and it is still (relatively) cool because it will get hot, really really hot and there is basically no shade. So you don't want to be there in the middle of the day.

Another option is to stay within the park, as only then you're allowed to drive through before the gates open. So this would be the only option if you want to watch the sun come up.

As soon as you enter the park you can take a left to visit the Sesriem Canyon but taking the heat into consideration we would advise leaving this to the end of your day. The first part of the park is a tarred road that will lead you past Dune 45, which is one of the dunes that you can climb. This one is not as high as Big Daddy, but it's still a very good workout and the view is amazing.

From Dune 45, you can continue to Big Daddy and Deadvlei. Here you can either go by yourself and try your hand at the very soft sand (you need a 4x4) that leads up the parking lot that is closest to Big Daddy and Deadvlei or you park at the first parking lot and take the shuttle.

I had heard too many stories of people getting completely stuck in this part so we took the shuttle. But this also proved quite of a challenge;

  • There are a lot of groups here with a tour guide and it seems like they have some great deals with the shuttle drivers to pick them up first. And they're not afraid to let you know that the next shuttle that comes will be for them. So it might take some time to get there.

  • The shuttle is free but there are some people walking around the parking lot that will try to make you pay for it.

  • If you thought getting into the shuttle on your way to the Deadvlei was a challenge, try going back when there are countless tour groups trying to do the same and people have been in the burning sun for hours.

This experience left a bit of a sour taste after an amazing day. Because the sand dunes, the views and the Deadvlei were really impressive.

To get to the Deadvei, there is a bit of a walk from the parking lot. Or if you're climbing Big Daddy you will (sort of) run off the side of the dune and end up in the Deadvlei. And to the honest, I felt that photographs don't do it justice. It was really impressive and unlike anything else we've ever seen. So it was really frustrating to see people touching the trees and sitting on them as you can just go anywhere you like and there is no one keeping an eye on the visitors.

If you only have about a week in Namibia this is the point in the itinerary where you could go straight after arriving in Windhoek, stay 2 nights and then follow the rest of the itinerary.

Sossusvlei Namibia by TravelTaale
Sossusvlei Namibia by TravelTaale
Deadvlei Namibia by TravelTaale

Day 10/11: Solitaire, the Tropic of Capricorn sign and Swakopmund 


Where to stay - Namib Guesthouse

Things to do - fishing, boat trips to watch dolphins, seal colony, kayaking, sand boarding and skiing, quad biking, camel rides and off-road driving, Skeleton coast, Welwitscis plains

Where to eat - The Tug, Jetty 1905, Tiger reef beach bar & grill, Farmhouse Deli, Ocean Cellar

Route - D826 - C19 - Solitaire - C14 - C14/M36 - Walvis Bay - B2

From the desolate and very hot Namib Desert you'll go on your way to the cooler coast and one of the largest cities of Namibia. And this city does not only attract international tourists but is also a holiday destination for Namibian's.

But you first have to get there. This part of the route is also known for it being the most challenging. And when you're driving there, you can see the results off that all too often in the form of disregarded flat tires.

Luckily on the way you can have a nice coffee break and eat apple pie at the famous Solitaire. We definitely recommend stopping here even if you don't like apple pie (but who doesn't?) because this is also the only filling station on the way to Walvis Bay. And you can make another stop at the tropic of Capricorn sign.

Coming from the relative quiet of the desert, it took a moment to acclimatise to the busyness of this town. But it was also time for a much-needed trip to the supermarket to stock up for the next part of the trip, to get money from an ATM (there are not a lot of them on this trip so take advantage when you're in a city) and an opportunity to go out for dinner with views of the Atlantic Ocean.

As this city attracts a lot of tourists, there are a lot of options in terms of accommodation, activities and restaurants. So this can be a great location to stay longer than we have in this itinerary.

If you have time, you can drive up north on the C34 to the Cape Cross seal colony and the Skeleton Coast. It's about 1.5 hours drive to Cape Cross, where you can find countless seals. Just be sure to take a scarf as the smell is overwhelming.

From here, it's quite a drive if you go all the way up to Terrace bay (another 3 hours). As you have to stay on the official road in the national park you won't get as close as you might like to the shipwrecks or whale bones as you often see in pictures. If you want to get up close and drive over the sand, you will need to book a private 4x4 tour or you can fly over the coast via small chartered planes.

We stayed at the Namib Guest House, which is located in a quiet suburb, about 10 minutes walk away from the city centre. With the help of the staff at the guest house, we booked a quad bike trip and enjoyed great dinners at The Tug and Jetty 1905.

Day 12/13: The rock paintings and pertified forest in Damaraland 


Where to stay - Damara Mopane lodge

Things to do - San rock paintings at Twyfelfontein, Petrified Forest, Spitskoppe, guided drive to see the desert-adapted elephant

Where to eat - At the lodge

Route - C34 - Hentiesbaai - C35 - C39 or B2 - B1918 - D3716 for a detour past Spitskoppe

From Swakopmund, you can drive straight to Etosha if you want (about 5/5.5 hours) but a stopover in Damaraland is definitely worth it.

While we love doing road trips like this one through Namibia, you are constantly on the move so it's important to build some rest into your itinerary on the way. And this is a perfect location. You can spend a full day exploring the area and take a rest of the second day or explore in the mornings and rest around the pool in the afternoon.

On the way to Damaraland, you can make a stop at Spitskoppe. And when you're there definitely have a look at the prehistoric San rock paintings at Twyfelfontein and the Petrified Forest. With both activities, you can not walk around on your own so you will be taken in a group or if you're lucky and you're the only one not in a group (like we had) you'll get a private tour. To see the rock paintings you will need to do some climbing over the rocks so be sure to take sturdy shoes.

We stayed at the Damara Mopane lodge from Gondwana, which is located close to all of these attractions. The lodge has a cosy feeling and all rooms are private buildings with their own garden where they grow the produce for the meals they serve. The rooms are built in a circle around the pool.

In the main building, breakfast and buffet dinner are served. There is also a small shop. But our personal favourite was the viewing deck at sunset. Each evening you can meet up with fellow travellers and you will be taken on a short but slightly steep walk to the viewing deck where you can overlook the camp and plains and see the sunset while enjoying some snacks and a drink.

Spitskoppe Namibia by TravelTaale

Day 13/14: Etosha National Park - Stay inside the park


Where to stay - Okaukeujo, Halali (based on 2 days inside)

Where to eat - At the restaurant or you can use the braai on your campsite.

Route - C39 - Outjo - C38

This might have been the moment in the itinerary you've been waiting for. Even though we had seen amazing things on our trip so far, we sure were waiting for this moment. From Damara Mopane lodge it's just a 2.5-hour drive to Andersons Gate.

Just be sure to stock up before you enter the park if you're planning to cook your own meals. When we were in Etosha there was an outbreak of Foot and Mouth Disease. This meant that there were checks when leaving the park as you are not allowed to take any raw meat or eggs out of the park. So stock up but don't buy too much. And the same applies to fuel, fill up your tank close to the park (we did this in Outjo).

We won't go into too much detail here about Etosha as we have written a detailed guide about Etosha with everything you need to know, shared our personal experience of going on a self-drive safari in Etosha and created an Etosha photo diary for if you just want to see the pictures. But we’ll explain a bit more about the itinerary.

The major reason for us to go to Namibia was to visit Etosha National Park. So when we booked our trip with the help of a travel agent, we were quite surprised when we were advised not to stay inside the park for all 5 days. Etosha was the whole reason we were going so that’s where we wanted to stay.

Inside Etosha National Park all accommodation is managed by Namibia Wildlife Resorts (NWR) which is a government incentive for wildlife resorts in Namibia. You can book your accommodation via their official website. You can pick different types of accommodation based on your preferences and your budget.

But as this was a national park we had not been to before we decided to take the advice of our travel agent. So we stayed 2 nights inside and 2 nights outside the park while still having the opportunity to get into Etosha.

So to keep our costs down we had planned to stay in Mokuti Lodge. This is a lodge that also offers spa, gym & conference facilities, organises weddings and game drives inside Etosha but they don't have their own game reserve. So this seemed a great solution, to stay outside the park and keep the costs down.

But between the moment we made this decision and booking Mokuti was already fully booked so our travel agent booked Onguma Bush Camp for us.

Looking back we would have loved to stay a couple more nights inside Etosha because you can easily spend more than 3 days exploring the park but we would have reduced time spent elsewhere and not sure where we should have done that.

But due to Onguma having their own game reserve we stayed within the camp and organised a game drive, bush walk and stay in the hide. We did not regret staying in Onguma as it was a great experience in terms of the activities but also in terms of the accommodation.

Because to be honest, the quality of the Okaukuejo campsite inside Etosha leaves something to be desired. The sites are small and so close to each other that you can hear every word of your neighbour's conversations.

And when we stayed in Etosha there were a lot of groups with overland trucks that would camp next to the ablution blocks and take over the facilities to prep and cook their meals hardly leaving any space to just brush your teeth.

Elephant in between trees - Etosha National Park by TravelTaale
Male lion and cub - Etosha National Park by TravelTaale

Day 15/16: Etosha National Park - Stay outside the park


Where to stay - Onguma (you can pick between 7 different camps inside Onguma - we loved the Bush Camp)

Where to eat - At the restaurant in the camp

Route - Drive Namutoni and exit through the Von Lindequist Gate in the east - Entrance to Onguma is just outside of Etosha

Onguma is one of the 3 privately owned reserves that are bordering Etosha. At the Anderssons gate, you have Ongava Game Reserve which shares a border with Epacha Game Reserve. But Onguma is the only one on the Eastern side of Etosha National Park and this reserve is 34.000 hectares and borders Fisher's Pan in Etosha.

Onguma offers 7 different camps (5 lodges and 2 campsites) and have their own reserve with waterholes and offer activities like bush walks, several hours in a hide and game drives in and outside of Etosha. But that’s not all. They also have a spa, a private airstrip and there is the opportunity to have dinner outside in the boma.

In the reserve, you can find over 300 bird species and 30 different species from antelopes like impala, kudu, hartebeest, gemsbok and eland to zebra and giraffes. They also have predators like leopards, cheetah and lions visiting the reserve. And recently introduced a family of black rhino's.

We also won't go into too much detail here about Onguma as we have written a detailed guide about Ongume and our stay in the Bush Camp and created a photo diary of our walking safari & photography hide at Onguma Bush Camp if you just want to see the pictures.

Onguma Bush Camp - Aerial Waterhole

Onguma Bush Camp - Aerial Waterhole

Gemsbok at Hide at Onguma Bush Camp Namibia by TravelTaale

Day 17/18: Where not to go when visiting Waterberg Plateau 


Where not to stay - Waterberg Plateau Campsite (see also the negative feedback here)

Things to do - Hiking trails around the camp and to the plateau

Things not to do - Guided game drive or guided rhino walk

Where to eat - At the restaurant in the camp or you can use the braai on your campsite.

Route - D3001 - B1 - C42 - Gtootfontein - B8 - D2804 - D2512

From Etosha, you can drive straight to the airport. But with the drive being 6 hours and taking the time into consideration that it takes to hand in your car, we knew we were cutting it fine in regards to the time our flight left. So we decided to stay 2 nights around the Waterberg Plateau, accounting for one driving day and one day to explore the area.

But we arrived early and were still able to organise a guided drive in the afternoon. We first saw a couple of giraffes and then the guide mentioned they had located the rhinos. As we had not seen any rhino's on our trip so far we got excited. And it wasn't long we spotted 2.

While busy with making the pictures you can see below, all of a sudden the doors of the truck were opened and we were able to go outside. This struck us as quite odd. There was no regard to wind or sound directions and there was no ranger with a gun just in case.

This made us feel quite uncomfortable, not even for our own safety, but more with a question mark as to how these animals were treated. Within just a short time period more and more trucks showed up with visitors all too happy to step outside. What followed was even worse as sticks were thrown at them to make them pay attention or to get them to stand up.

These rhinos were given grass to feed on and as you can see in one of the pictures, there is a hide in the background where guides keep an eye on them. So they did not spot the rhino's, they know exactly where they are at all times and just drive the trucks to these places.

After a while, we left and 'found' 3 others. Again we could leave the truck and they even offered some drinks as sort of a sundowner, while 3 rhinos were standing by really close. When Sam said there was something strange about these rhinos like they were just swinging on their feet I had noticed the same. As we were in the middle of the park we could not walk away but we did decide to leave a night early (and stay at the Hilton in Windhoek instead) as something was very wrong here.

We are totally pro-conservation of these beautiful animals and support all who do their share however there is a line between being a conservation paradise for rhino's and exploiting them (almost like a petting zoo) for money.

In our opinion, you do not antagonize animals in order to get "the perfect" picture for your tour group. It was sad that the group we were in, did not seem to think that anything was wrong. And when you have a look at TripAdvisor (see link above) there are a lot of people that find this an amazing opportunity. But please also have a look at the feedback Steven T in Sep 2019 which you can find if you select negative feedback.

Waterberg Plateau Namibia by TravelTaale

AND THERE YOU HAVE IT...

..our 19-day Namibia Road trip Itinerary. We hope you enjoyed it and if you have any questions just leave your comments below. And if you are planning your own self-drive safari in Namibia let us know below where you are going

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9-day road trip itinerary Namibia by TravelTaale
9-day road trip itinerary Namibia by TravelTaale
 

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